Killer Waves

 
What was I-I-I thinking?

"Oo-oo, look at those kids body-surfing," I said, pointing down the beach.

"Don't even think about it," Gage replied. "You're not going out there."

"I might, just a little bit," I answered.

"Oh, no, you're not," he scolded.

I kicked some sand with my toe.

"Man, I never get to go body-surfing," I whined. "All the other kids get to, but I don't ..."

"If all the other kids jumped off a cliff, would you?" Gage asked.

"I would if it was fun," I pouted.

"Well, think again, bub. You're not going out there."

"We'll see ..."

***

We play this game a lot: One of us pretends that life is unfair, and the other lectures about how one of us knows what's best for the other one. The one being scolded answers with "What-everrr" and never takes it seriously.

This time, however, I should have let Gage lay down the law.

Kauai has 58,000 permanent residents and about 75,000 visitors a month. Eight people on the island drowned in 2003; on the very last day of the year, I was almost No. 9.

***

The sun is finally started burning through the gray haze of the past two days on New Year's Eve. Gage, who had been nursing a cold, also for the past two days, feels a bit sunnier too. We walk over to Anahola Beach. I bring along a snorkel mask and fins.

The water is too murky for good snorkeling and still a bit too chilly on the north end of the beach. We head toward the south end where the sun has been shining longer.

Anahola Beach has an easy slope and fine sand, making it really nice for a morning stroll. A reef protects the shore on the north end. About halfway, a stream empties out. Past the stream, the surf is a lot stronger.

Gage and I stop to watch the body surfers. They're just kids, 12, maybe 13 years old. The two of them make it look easy.

"I could so do that," I say.

"Uh-uh."

We turn to walk back to a good spot and lay out our towels. I prop myself on my elbows and watch the surf. It's choppy far out, but closer in, it doesn't look so bad.

"I'm going in, just a little ways," I say.

Gage arches his eyebrow at me and gives me a disapproving "hmmm" but doesn't object.

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